You can check for a stuck throttle by rotating the spring, in this case
I'm using a finger to pull the bottom of the spring towards the front.
It is perfectly safe to get a good hold of the spring to try and
If the throttle plate is sticking, it will be very difficult, even impossible to rotate the throttle plate and it needs to be cleaned. You'll notice I have my block and transaxle pan heater plug in that area. Also, my car has an experimental breather hose that leads to the transaxle to reduce dirt and grit in my transaxle oil.
This is a good time to open the two front clips and one side clip holding
the air filter cover and inspect the filter.
If it is full of pollen and dirt, either clean it with a vacuum hose or plan to replace it.
This photo shows the part number and a close up of the brushes:
If you can open the throttle, look down to see if there is oil in
the manifold indicating the engine oil level has been too high:
Do not worry about removing the oil, just take a note to make sure that in the future the oil changes leave it below the "F" mark. This can be accomplished by using just 3.5 quarts of oil instead of four. If you have someone else change the oil, buy four quarts and ask them to use your oil and return three empties and one half full.
Especially if the throttle plate is stuck, spray away:
My throttle plate would not open so I put the nozzel tube beyond the air flow sensor and sprayed about 1/3d of the cleaner. Having nothing to lose, I started the ICE and the powerful throttle motor opened it up. After ICE shutdown, I could rotate the throttle spring and finish cleaning the throttle area without spraying the air flow sensor.
A long handled, narrow brush like this one is perfect for cleaning the
plate and area where the shaft meets the airway:
Be sure to rock the throttle plate open and closed while spraying with cleaner. The goal is to get all of the sticky gunk out without risking the airflow sensor.